Local Lawn Care Guides

Acidic red clay and humid heat. Lime the soil up, run Bermuda or Zoysia in full sun, and save tall fescue for the shade.

The textbook transition zone. Tall fescue stays green nearly year round, with bermuda and zoysia as the warm-season alternatives.

Heavy prairie clay and a short season. Fall core aeration does more for the lawn than almost anything you do in spring.

Blackland Prairie black gumbo that cracks open dry and seals shut wet, on alkaline clay that yellows lawns by locking up iron. Bermuda rules the sun, and your pre-emergent goes down in February, not April.

Mile-high sun and alkaline clay. Irrigation discipline and fall aeration matter more here than almost anywhere.

Fifty inches of rain a year, heavy coastal gumbo clay, and 300 frost-free days. Here disease and chinch bugs, not drought, wreck a lawn, and St. Augustine is the default for a reason.

Acidic loess silt loam, 54 inches of rain, and a true transition-zone summer. In Memphis you commit to fescue or bermuda, then lime the soil to fix the pH almost nobody tests for.

The coldest, shortest-season lawn in the cohort: single-digit January lows, snow mold under deep snow, and road-salt burn along the curb. Fall is your money season here, not spring.

Two lawns, one metro: fast-draining Long Island sand that needs frequent water, and compacting Westchester clay till that needs aeration. Both cool-season, zone 7b, with a mid-April crabgrass window keyed to forsythia.

Wet, mild, and mossy. Moss control, drainage, and routine liming are the whole game here, not crabgrass.