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Lawn Care Guides

A few ways to dig in. Pick your grass type for a plan tuned to your species and climate, jump to a care task guide (fertilizing, watering, mowing, weed control) for the how-to and the math, or browse a guide built for your city. However you start, you land on expert guidance that actually fits your lawn.

Start hereTypes of Grass: the complete hubNew to this? Start with the cool-season vs warm-season split, all the major lawn types, and how to identify the grass you already have.

Not sure what grass you have? Upload a photo and our AI identifies it in seconds.

Cool season grasses

Best for northern climates (Zones 3 to 7)

Warm season grasses

Best for southern climates (Zones 7 to 10)
Warm

Bermudagrass

The most popular warm-season grass in America. Aggressive, heat-loving, and incredibly durable for high-traffic southern lawns.

Zones7 to 10
MaintenanceHigh
View guide
Warm

Kikuyugrass

An aggressive, fast-repairing warm-season grass built for mild coastal climates, especially Southern California lawns.

Zones9 to 11
MaintenanceMedium
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Warm

Zoysiagrass

A dense, carpet-like warm-season grass with excellent cold tolerance for its class. Slow to establish but low-maintenance once mature.

Zones6 to 9
MaintenanceMedium
View guide
Warm

St. Augustinegrass

A broad-bladed, shade-tolerant warm-season grass dominant in the Gulf Coast and Florida. Lush and tropical-looking.

Zones8 to 10
MaintenanceHigh
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Warm

Centipede Grass

The "lazy man's grass," a low-maintenance, slow-growing warm-season option that thrives in acidic soils with minimal fertilization.

Zones7 to 9
MaintenanceVery low
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Warm

Bahiagrass

A tough, deep-rooted warm-season grass built for sandy soils and drought. Popular in Florida and the Gulf Coast for low-input lawns.

Zones7 to 11
MaintenanceVery low
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Warm

Buffalograss

A native North American prairie grass requiring minimal water and fertilizer. Ideal for eco-friendly lawns in the Great Plains region.

Zones3 to 9
MaintenanceVery low
View guide

Care task guides

The four jobs every lawn needs, whatever the grass type

Weed identification & control

Spot what's invading and treat it at the right time
Moderate

Crabgrass

Crabgrass is the most common summer annual weed in American lawns. It germinates when soil hits the mid-50s in spring, sprawls into wide, crab-legged clumps through summer, then dies at frost and leaves bare spots that reseed next year. Prevention timing beats curative spraying almost every time.

TypeGrassy weed
ControlPrevent or treat
View guide
Easy to control

Dandelions

Dandelions are broadleaf perennials with a taproot that can reach ten inches deep, which is why mowing the flowers off never kills the plant. Fall is the best kill window, when the plant pulls herbicide down into the root along with winter reserves.

TypeBroadleaf
ControlTreat when up
View guide
Stubborn

Yellow Nutsedge

Yellow nutsedge is not a grass or a broadleaf, it is a sedge, which is why regular lawn herbicides do nothing to it. It grows faster and lighter-green than turf, loves wet spots, and spreads by underground tubers (nutlets) that survive winter and hand-pulling alike.

TypeSedge
ControlTreat when up
View guide
Moderate

White Clover

White clover is a low, creeping perennial legume with the classic three-leaflet shape and white pom-pom flowers. It thrives exactly where grass struggles, in low-nitrogen soil, because it fixes its own nitrogen. Heavy clover is usually a message that the lawn is underfed.

TypeBroadleaf
ControlTreat when up
View guide
Stubborn

Creeping Charlie

Creeping Charlie is a shade-loving perennial in the mint family that spreads by above-ground runners, rooting at every node into dense mats that smother turf. It is one of the hardest common lawn weeds to eradicate, and the realistic plan is a fall herbicide window plus fixing the shady, damp conditions it prefers.

TypeBroadleaf
ControlTreat when up
View guide
Stubborn

Annual Bluegrass (Poa annua)

Annual bluegrass, or Poa annua, is a cool-season weed that germinates in early fall, looks innocently lush all winter and spring, and seeds prolifically even at low mowing heights. The common annual biotypes then die with summer heat and leave brown patches, though some perennial biotypes persist in irrigated lawns. Either way, the control window is fall, before germination.

TypeGrassy weed
ControlPrevent or treat
View guide

Local guides by city

The best grass and a month-by-month schedule tuned to your city

Buying guides

What to know before you spend $500+ on lawn equipment

Frequently asked questions

How do I know if I have cool-season or warm-season grass?

Cool-season grasses like Kentucky Bluegrass and Tall Fescue stay green in spring and fall but may brown in summer heat. Warm-season grasses like Bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass thrive in summer and go dormant (turn brown) in winter. Your location matters too. If you live north of the transition zone (roughly USDA Zones 3 through 6), you likely have cool-season grass. South of it (Zones 8 through 10), warm-season is more common. Not sure? Try our free AI grass identifier to find out.

When should I fertilize my lawn?

Timing depends on your grass type. Cool-season grasses benefit most from fertilization in early fall and again in late spring. Warm-season grasses should be fertilized in late spring through summer when they are actively growing. Avoid fertilizing during dormancy or extreme heat, as the nutrients will go to waste or could even damage your lawn.

How often should I water my lawn?

Most lawns do best with about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week, including rainfall. It is better to water deeply 2 to 3 times per week rather than lightly every day. Deep watering encourages roots to grow deeper, making your lawn more drought-resistant over time. Each grass type has slightly different needs, so check the specific guide for your grass.

What is the right mowing height for my grass?

Mowing height varies by grass type. Kentucky Bluegrass does best at 2.5 to 3.5 inches, Bermudagrass at 1 to 2 inches, and St. Augustinegrass at 3 to 4 inches. A general rule is to never cut more than one-third of the blade height at a time. Mowing too short stresses the grass and invites weeds. Check your specific grass guide for the recommended height.

Can I mix cool-season and warm-season grasses?

It is generally not recommended because they have opposite growing cycles and different care requirements. However, overseeding warm-season lawns with Perennial Ryegrass in fall is a common practice in the transition zone and southern states to keep lawns green during winter dormancy. This temporary mix works well because the ryegrass dies off naturally as the warm-season grass greens up in spring.

How do I fix bare spots in my lawn?

Start by loosening the soil in the bare area with a rake. Spread seed that matches your existing grass type, cover lightly with a thin layer of topsoil or compost, and water gently but consistently until the new grass establishes. For cool-season grasses, early fall is the best time to seed. For warm-season grasses, late spring works best. Our individual grass guides include detailed seeding and repair instructions.